Method of making shoes



Sept' 8, 1931. w. .1. KELLY 1,822,852

METHOD OF MAKING ,SHOES Qrginal Filed March 19, 1926 InverLZ-or? Patented Sept. 8, 1931 .arassz UNITED STATES PATENT 'OFFICE WILLIAM J'. KELLY, 0F BROOKLYN, YORK, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-HALF TO ARTHUR D.

BASCH, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK i METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Original application led March 19,1926, Serial No. 95,853. Divided and this application filed August 12,

No. 385,390. j

1929. Serial My invention relates to the art of making shoes, and the principal object thereof is a new and improved method of making shoes as hereinafter set forth in the specification and claims, reference bein had to the accompanying drawings in W ich- Figure 1 is a side elevation of a shoe in process of manufacture with the upper tacked on the last.

Figure2 is a vertical cross section through line 2-2 of Figure 1 showing the first step of the method.

Figure 3 is a similar view after the insole has been attached in position.

Figure 4 is a detailed cross sectional View indicating one step in the production of a shoe according to this method.

Figure 5 is a View similar to Figures 2 and 3 showing the shoe after the completion of the sewing step illustrated in Figure 4.

Figure 6 is a view similar to 5 showing the out sole applied.

This application is a division and continuation of my co ending application Serial No. 95.853. filed vNiarch 19, 1926.

In the drawings, the numeral 1 designates the last and 2 an upper, and in the first step of this method the upper 2 is drawn over the last in any manner as, for instance, by a pullover machine and the marginal portions are drawn down practically in the edges or corners of the last and fastened by lasting tacks 3. It is to be expressly understood that these tacks are driven into the sides of the last adjacent the bottom edges thereof, and not into the bottom of the last in accordance with the usual practice.

The next step is illustrated in Figure 3 and includes the application of the insole 4 which may be held in place by any suitable means, such as the tacks 5. The free edges of the upper are turned outwardly and overlap and rest upon the protruding margins or edges of the insole 4, as clearly illustrated in Figure 3. It is to be noted in Figure 3 that the tacks are bent upwardly and are at an acute angle to the extended edges of the upper and insole.

The next step involves placing this lasted upper upon a tiltabletable A with the insole 4 in contact with the table. The table and last are tilted or shifted to an inclined position, as indicated in Figure 4, to present the corner portion of the lasted upper to the shoe or roller C of the presser foot of the sewing machme. The lasted upper is thus supported upon the table and is moved or advanced by the workman so as to 1gresent the upper to the,

the bottom edges or corners of the last so that a snug fit is obtained. At the same time that the presser foot is performing its functions, the tacks of the upper are forced down and the upper is stitched to the sole so.;that the seam passes over the tacks and hides or covers the tack holes.

The roller C engages the upper at Vthe angle formed by the out turned margin, and pressing thereagainst acts to crowd or force that portion of the upper somewhat below the last so that the stitches 6 passl through the upper and insole at an angle and as close as possible to the corner or angle 7 of the upper. The roller tucks the upper practically .below the edge of the last, this operation being facilitated by utilizing the inclined table, the inclination of which may be varied as necessary.

This mechanism and the details of the operation thereof are all disclosed and described in full in my above-mentioned copending application.

When the sewing operation of Figure 4 is completed, the lasted upper has the appearance shown in Figure 5. Then the outsole 8 is sewed thereto by means of stitches 9, see Figure 6.

In my copending application for method of making shoes, Serial No. 549,515, filed July 8, 1931, I have disclosed and claimed a method of pulling an upper downwardly over a last simultaneously at opposite sides of the 35 and into the sides 49 assembly through the last and then driving tacks into the sides of the last near the bottom edges thereof.

It is therefore seen that by this method it is possible to produce a shoe quickly and eco- 5 nomically and that a minimum amount of expenditure of time and labor is used. Furthermore, the shoe produced is correctly lasted and the various parts thereof are permanently secured together to give good wearlpleasing appearance and proper lit.'

wat opposite sides thereof vand close to the bottom edges thereof and fastening the upper to the last by tacks driven through the upper and into the sides of the last at the forepart and adjacent the edges thereof, the edges of said upper being free and adapted to be bent laterally, imposing an insole upon the drawn upper and securing the insole to the last so that the free edges of the upper rest upon and are supported by the margins of the insole and at a sharp angle to the upper and last, and securing said insole and upper together by means passing through the upper over the line of tacks while at said sharp angle and at an inclination to the vertical.

2. The method of making stitchdown shoes, which comprises drawing or pulling an upper downwardly over a last, temporarily fastening the upper to the last near the bottom edges thereof by tacks driven through the upper of the last. adjacent the bottom edges thereof and leaving the edge portions of the upper free, mounting a sole on the drawn or pulled upper and bending the tacks upwardly, and then stitching the angle of the upper and sole with the seam passing over the line of tacks so that when the tacks are withdrawn, the holes left bythe tacks will not be seen. 3. The method of making stitchdown shoes,

which comprises, pulling an upper downwardly over the toe and on opposite sides of the last, temporarily fastening the upper to the last near the bottom edges thereof by tacks driven through the upper and into the sides of the last adjacent the bottom edges thereof and leaving the marginal portions of the upper free, mounting a sole on the drawn or pulled upper vand stitching the sole to the edge portions of the drawn or pulled upper with the seam passing over the line of the tack holes.

4. The method of making stitchdown shoes, which comprises, drawing or pulling an upper downwardly over a last so that the edges of the upper extend beyond the edges of the last, driving tacks lintothe sides of the last near the bottom edgesvthereof and leaving the edge portions of the upper free, mounting a sole on the drawn or pulled upper and securing the sole to the edge portions of the drawn or pulled upper at an angle on a line l with the tacks, the securing operation forcing the tacks and the upper downwardly so that the seam covers the holes left bythe tacks when the tacks are afterwards withdrawn.

5. The method of making stitchdown shoes, which comprises, drawin or pulling an up'- per over a last, temporari y fastening the uper to the last near the bottom edges thereof y tacks driven through the upper and into the 'sides of the last adjacent the bottom edges thereof and -leaving the edge portions of the upper free, mounting a sole on the drawn or pulled upper and bending the tacks upwardly, and then stitching the sole to the edge portions of the drawn or pulled upper at an angle and with the seam passing over the line of the tacks, the stitching operation forcing the bent tacks and upper downwardly so that the line of stitching passes over the tack ho es.

6. The method of making stitchdown shoes, which comprises, drawing or pulling anupper downwardly over the toe and at opposite sides of a last, driving tacks through the upper into the toe and sides of the last close to thev bottom edges thereof,-mounting"a sole on the drawn or pulled upper'andfbendingfthe tacks upwardly, and then ystitching the as sem-` bly through the angle of the upper and sole" while forclng the upper downwardly to tightly engage the last.`

7. The method of making stitchdown shoes, which comprises, drawing or pulling an upper over a last, temporarily fastening the upper. to the last near the bottom edges thereof by tacks driven through the upper and into the sides of the last adjacent the bottom edges thereof and leaving the edge portions of the up r free, mounting a sole'on the drawn or pu led upper, and then stitching the sole to the edge portions of the drawn or pulled upper atan angle and with the seam passing over the line of the tack holes, the stitching being done while the upper is'forced downwardly to the bottom edges or corners of the last so that the upper is made to tightly engage the last.

8. The method of making stitchdown shoes, which comprises, drawing or pulling an upper downwardly over a last so that the edges of the upper extend beyond the edges of the last, driving tacks into the sides of the last near the bottom edges thereof and leaving the edge portions of the upper free, mounting a sole on the drawn or pulled upper and stitching the sole to the edge portions of the drawn or pulled upper at an angle on the line with the tacks, the stitching forcing the upper downwardly and around the bottom edges or corners of the last. A

9. The method of making stitchdown shoes, which comprises, drawing or pulling an upper over a last, temporarily fastening the upper to the last near the bottom edges thereof by tacks driven through the upper and into the sides of the last adjacent the bottom edges thereof and leaving the edge portions of the upper free, mounting a sole on the drawn or pulled upper, and then securing the sole to the edge portions of the drawn or pulled upper at an angle and with the seam passing over the line of the tack holes, the securing operation being done While foroin the upper against the side of the last an downwardly to the bottom edges or corners of the last.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing, I

have hereunto set my hand this 9th day of August, 1929.

WILLIAM J. KELLY. 

